How to Propagate Monstera From Cuttings: 8 Steps for Roots in 2–3 Weeks

One healthy Monstera deliciosa vine can become two, three, or four new plants, for free. All it takes is a stem cutting with a node, a jar of water or a small pot of soil, and a few weeks of patience. If you have ever trimmed a leggy monstera and wondered whether the piece you cut off could live on its own, this guide is for you.

The short version: cut just below a node, root the cutting in water or soil in bright, indirect light, and pot it up once the roots are a few inches long. The rest of this guide walks through each step, including what to do when a cutting stalls or starts to rot. If you are still unsure what a node looks like, start there, because it is the one thing a cutting cannot do without.

Quick answer: Take a cutting with at least one node and one healthy leaf, cutting about ½ inch below the node. Root it in water or moist soil in bright, indirect light. In water, expect roots in 2–3 weeks; pot it up once the roots are 2–3 inches long with a few branches.

First, Find the Node (No Node, No New Plant)

A node is the knobby bump on the vine where a leaf stem meets the main stem. It often has a brown aerial root poking out of it, and it is the only part of the stem that can grow new roots and new leaves. A cutting without a node may sit green in water for weeks, but it will never become a full plant. If you want the full explanation, see Can You Propagate Monstera Without a Node?

There are three kinds of cuttings, and they do not root at the same speed. A top cutting, the growing tip of the vine with two or three leaves, roots fastest and grows on the quickest. A mid-stem cutting, a section of vine with one node and one leaf, also works well and lets you make several plants from one long vine. A leafless section with a node, sometimes called a wet stick, can root too, but it is the slowest and the easiest to rot, so it is not the best choice for a first attempt.

What You’ll Need

• Clean, sharp pruning shears or a sharp knife
• Rubbing alcohol for sterilizing the blades
• A clean glass jar, or a small pot with drainage holes
• Room-temperature water, or a chunky, well-draining mix (see Best Soil Mix for Monstera)
• Rooting hormone (optional, but helpful for soil cuttings)
• A clear plastic bag (optional, for soil cuttings)

How to Propagate Monstera From Cuttings in 8 Steps

1. Pick a healthy vine. Choose a vine with firm green leaves and at least one visible node. Spring and early summer are the best times, when the plant is actively growing, but a healthy cutting will root at any time of year if it gets enough light and warmth.
2. Sterilize your shears. Wipe the blades with rubbing alcohol before you cut. A dirty blade can carry disease into the open wound and turn a healthy cutting into a rotting one.
3. Cut about ½ inch below a node. Make a clean cut at a slight angle, keeping one or two healthy leaves above the node. Leave a short stub of stem below the node rather than cutting flush against it.
4. Trim and let the cut dry. Remove any leaves that would sit under water or under soil, since submerged leaves rot. Then let the cut end dry for an hour or two so it forms a light callus.
5. Optional: dip in rooting hormone. For soil cuttings, a light dip of the cut end in rooting hormone powder can speed rooting. It is less important for water cuttings, which usually root fine without it.
6. Water method: Place the cutting in a clean jar so the node is submerged but the leaves stay above the water. Set it in bright, indirect light and change the water every 3–5 days to keep bacteria down.
7. Soil method: Fill a small pot with pre-moistened chunky mix, poke a hole, and tuck the node about an inch deep. Water lightly, then cover loosely with a clear plastic bag, opening it daily for airflow, and keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy.
8. Wait, and check weekly. In water you should see white root tips in 2–3 weeks. In soil, gently tug the cutting after 4 weeks; resistance means roots are forming. Do not keep pulling it out to look, since that breaks the fragile new roots.

Water vs Soil: Which Method Should You Pick?

Both methods work. The right one depends on what you value most: watching the roots grow, or skipping a transplant later.

How Long Until Roots, and When to Pot

Do not rush the move from water to soil. Roots grown in water are finer than soil roots, and a cutting potted too early, with only one short root, often stalls. Wait for several roots a few inches long. For the first two weeks after potting, keep the soil a little more moist than you normally would, then settle into the usual routine in How Often to Water a Monstera.

What Happens to the Mother Plant?

Nothing bad. The stump left behind usually pushes out a new growth point from the node just below your cut within a few weeks, so the mother plant gets bushier rather than thinner. Never remove more than about a third of the plant at once, and give the remaining vine something to climb, like the support in How to Use a Moss Pole for Monstera. Keep watering the mother plant as usual and skip fertilizer until you see new growth.

Troubleshooting: Why Your Cutting Isn’t Rooting

Variegated Monstera Cuttings: One Extra Rule

Variegated monsteras, like the albo, follow the same steps, but the cutting must come from a stem section that already shows variegation in its leaves and stem. A cutting taken from an all-green section will grow an all-green plant, and variegated cuttings root more slowly, so give them extra light and extra patience. Keep them out of direct sun, which scorches the white parts of the leaves faster than the green.

Related Rescues

• Monstera Care Guide for Beginners: Light, Water, Soil
• How to Repot a Monstera in 9 Steps (With Moss Pole Tips)
• Can You Propagate Monstera Without a Node?